Schiaparelli Fall 2023 Couture

Schiaparelli Fall 2023 Couture by Daniel Roseberry

I was going to write a whole article about this collection the day of but I ended up spending days trying to put together an analysis of this collection without it sounding so cliché & trying to piece the right words together. I found myself repeating how much I love Daniel Roseberry’s creative direction under Schiaparelli & expressing my admiration for his creativity over & over again. To sum it up, this show focused on different textures, artistic references, masterfully constructed details, and bold colors; for instance, the international Klein blue by Yves Klein, 1959. There’s a sensual, organic, and warm with this collection. 

The definition of a true Haute Couture fashion house. Daniel Roseberry brings out a certain excitement in me that I feel Lee Alexander McQueen brought to me that I admire so much. Both incredible creative masterminds and artists in their own right. 

"Stretch skirt and cardigan set fully embroidered with painted wooden beads re-gilded by hand. Metal “leaf” structure made of a hand-coated fabric in gold paint. Belt in gilded metal and hammered rush inlaid with a molded ear embellished with rhinestone piercing."

"Ensemble consisting of an overtight crocheted cardigan jacket held together by bijoux buttons made of natural hydrangea flowers cast in yellow gold and the matching skirt both entirely embroidered with broken irregular pieces of mirrors. Rigid silver brass breast clutch embellished with rhinestone piercings. Pair of silver-plated brass earrings with chain and lobster clasp with inlaid molded hydrangea flowers."

"Rigid palmtree set with black goat hair mounted on a metal frame. Overisze faux black hand- painted necklace."

"Wrap coat in brown velvet astrakhan faux fur hand-painted in a gradient of electric blue. It is paired with an archive-inspired breast plate made in wood, rhinestones and metal, entirely painted blue and hand-patinated. Pair of silver-plated and rhinestone earrings in the shape of a snail and hand-painted blue abstract shapes. Wood and rhinestones cuff bracelets."

"Extreme volume coat in ivory mohair fringes. Oversized necklace in wooden beads, closed with a replica of the hands of Pascal and Pascaline, Schiap’s favorite models."

"Long two-material coat in white wool with collar and wide sleeves in ivory washed faille enhanced by a twirling collar in contrasting black felt. Faux black double washed satin-pants with frayed, hand-combed hem. Oversized drawstring snood in ivory washed faille and triple organdy that turns into a sleeve."

"Dress in nude lace with corseted bustier in tonal openwork satin. Molded hand and spiral resin accessory."

"Extreme swelling oversized coat made from a mosaic of over 12,000 hand-painted mirror- effect leather rectangles enhanced with an oversized collar. Pair of snail-shaped gold-plated and rhinestone earrings, with hand-crafted rhinestone-set balls. Oversize pearls and wood beads and signature doves necklaces gilded with gold leaf."

"Bi-material corset in bronze satin and tulle laced up at back with gold brass eyelets and extra- wide trapeze pants in thick bronze velvet twill enhanced by a belly-revealing “unbuttoned” low-cut. Gold-plated metal cuff inlaid with molded half-face and ear elements embellished with rhinestone piercings. Choker necklace in silver-plated metal inlaid with molded elements of leaf and ear embellished with rhinestone piercings and cultured pearl."

"Strapless long dress with plunging neckline in bronze washed double satin. Pair of puffy sleeves with oversized volume. The dress is worn over pants in ebony washed double satin with fringed, hand-combed hem. Pair of asymmetrical filament earrings in raw hand-crafted gold metal with inlaid crystals."

"Oversized drawstring snood in ivory washed faille and triple organdi that turns into a sleeve. It is worn over a bi-material corset in nude tulle and satin, laced up at the back with gold brass eyelets. Extra-large black double-satin trapeze pants with belly-revealing extreme low-cut. Earring in gilded metal, hand-crafted with natural pearl inlay."

"Deconstructed cape coat with extreme volume created in a patchwork of over 10 000 rectangles of entirely hand-painted white leather. Asymmetrical abstract dangle earring in silvered gold metal and rhinestones, handmade and hand-painted in red."

"Ultra-short off-shoulder tailored jacket in black wool crepe with tonal velvet lapel and stretch velvet hoops mini-skirt with extreme low-cut revealing the belly."

"Stretch puzzle dress crocheted from irregular, multicolored, hand-painted elements and embellished with rhinestones to create a trompe-l’œil reproduction of a woman’s body. Rhinestones pendant earrings."

"Long, wide-sleeved coat in cream compact wool embellished with trompe-l’œil body embroidery in contrasting black micro-beads. Black washed faille train with tonal triple organza ruffles of extreme volume that cascade endlessly"

"Oversized shawl-collared short coat with flared sleeves in brown felt fastened with a gold metal brooch inlaid with a molded leaf and mouth decorated with rhinestone piercings. It is paired with extra-large black duchesse satin trapeze pants enhanced by a frayed, hand- combed hem. Earring in handcrafted raw gold-plated brass with inlaid crystal. Necklace with hand-gilded wooden elements. Wood and rhinestone cuff bracelet."

"Wave skirt in rigid corset canvas, hand-painted in electric blue and touches of green. Gold- plated metal necklace inlaid with molded leaf and face elements with rhinestone piercings and teardrop details."

"Off-shoulder ultra-cropped blouse in ivory washed faille with gathered sleeves, whose hemline mirrors that of the puffed and irregularly draped skirt in ecru taffeta with integrated underwire casing."

"Short jacket entirely covered with bijoux in plaster, wood, rhinestones and metal, with a patch of natural hydrangea flowers treated to become eternal, hand-painted in yellow, and a patch of electric blue gradations. It is paired with high-waisted pants in black wool piqué. Hand-gilded twisted wood necklace. Sugar-effect necklace in crystal beads."

"Sleeveless turtleneck in black jersey inlaid with a trompe-l’œil breast molded in a black hand-painted fabric. It is worn with a high-waisted skirt entirely embroidered with glass tubes in vibrant multicolored gradients, fastened with back lacing and hammered antique gold metal eyelets."

"Sleeveless long tuxedo dress in black silk wool enhanced with a deconstructed shawl collar, a side slit and a genuine hydrangea flower brooch cast in white gold and a large hot silver brass safety pin. Oval bracelet in gilded metal inlaid with molded elements of a woman’s bust and breasts embellished with rhinestone piercings."

"Bi-material off-shoulder long dress in sheer, draped black jersey over a tulle pleat and nude satin bra. The dress is open worked in the shape of a signature keyhole revealing the belly button. Leather trompe-l’œil cigarette accessory. Abstract hand-made and hand-painted plaster cuff."

"Black woolen jacket with white poplin inserts at collar and cuffs, embellished with deconstructed shawl collar and flared sleeves. Asymmetrical wave skirt in rigid black corset canvas. Gold metal apple accessory with molded ear adorned with rhinestone piercing."

"Mid-length bi-material wide-sleeved coat in faux black compact wool enhanced with an oversized collar in ivory goat hair closed by a hammered gold brass belt buckle inlaid with a molded ear decorated with rhinestone piercings. Gold-plated metal brooch inlaid with molded leaf and fingers elements embellished with rhinestone piercings. Filament earring in hand-crafted raw gold metal with inlaid crystal."

"Asymmetrical draped dress in nude satin and black sheer jersey. Drawstring oversized snood that turns into a sleeve fully embroidered with natural hydrangea flowers treated to become eternal and enhanced with a hand-painted electric blue lining. Filament earring in hand- crafted raw gold metal with inlaid crystal."

"Asymmetrical dress with voluminous train and integrated underwire casing in draped crepeline revealing a nude tonal corset laced at the side and embellished with gold brass eyelets."

"Fully crocheted oversized snood embroidered with ivory pearls. Extreme low-waisted bias skirt in ebony satin, revealing the skin through transparency. Puffy belt in dark brown velvet. Filament earring in raw hand-crafted gold-plated metal with inlaid crystal."

"Deconstructed coat with extreme swelling and oversized collar in crackled white velvet, entirely hand-painted with multicolored touches and gradations of electric blue and orange."

"Miniskirt embroidered with liquid-effect black glass tubes paire with a mirrored leaf and rhinestones bib inspired by one of Elsa Schiaparelli’s archival jacket fastened by a velvet ribbon embroidered with the signature Measuring tape on the back. Gold metal cuff inlaid with molded half-face and ear elements embellished with rhinestone piercings."

Other details from the collection: